In the Limelight

When we think of limes today, key lime pie or a margarita with a wedge of lime might come to mind.

In the 18th century, thoughts could wander to punch.

Citrus fruits such as oranges, lemons and limes were a luxury in colonial America. They originated in South-east Asia and were spread throughout North Africa and Europe by Arab traders. On his second voyage to America in 1493, Christopher Columbus brought lime seeds to the Caribbean Islands, where a vital citrus trade continues today. The British Royal Navy of the 18th century routinely carried limes grown in Jamaica and Dominica to prevent scurvy, a disease caused by a vitamin C deficiency that was common on long voyages.

During their conquest of Central America in the 16th century, the Spanish introduced limes from North America to Mexico — setting the stage for Mexico to become the world’s largest producer and exporter of limes.

“We know that George Washington had an orangery at Mount Vernon,” said Eve Otmar, master of historic gardening in the Historic Area. “That would have been a requirement for growing limes in Virginia. We do grow limes in the Historic Garden here today, but we move them into a greenhouse for the winter.”

The General in the Garden: George Washington’s Landscape at Mount Vernon (2015) describes visitors writing in their diaries of seeing limes in the upper garden at Washington’s Virginia plantation. And while there’s no proof that limes were grown in early Williamsburg, we do know that they were imported.

“The Virginia Gazette mentions several ships containing barrels of limes arriving into ports on the James River, and the journals of Virginian Col. William Byrd indicate he ordered lime juice from Barbados,” said Otmar.

Oranges were grown in the orangery at the Governor’s Palace, but the limes that were used in the kitchens were purchased by the governor’s cook, according to Frank Clark, master of Historic Foodways. Records recount at least four occasions when limes were purchased. On at least one occasion, Christopher Ayscough, a local tavern keeper, was the seller.

“We cannot overestimate the popularity of punch in the 18th century,” Clark said. “It was served by the gentry at special events and business meetings. It was served cold in the summer and hot in the winter. People had their own secret recipes.”

Clark notes that punch was always made with a spirit — rum and brandy before the Revolution and whiskey and local brandies after.

The term “punch” comes from the Hindi word “paunch,” which means “five.” Punch typically included five ingredients: water, spirits, sugar, citrus and spice. Clark provides an 18th-century punch recipe that includes those five ingredients. The “sherbet” mentioned in the recipe refers to a sweet drink rather than a frozen dessert. The punch can be served hot or cold.

Modern Version adapted from The Cook’s and Confectioner’s Dictionary: Or, the Accomplish’d Housewife’s Companion (London, 1723)
Yields 2 quarts

4 limes, juiced and 2 zested
¾ cup sugar (less if you prefer a more tart punch)
2 pints water, divided
1 lemon, juiced
1 Seville or regular orange or ½ grapefruit, juiced
1 pint brandy

1 cup sweet white wine

fresh nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon or allspice, optional

1. In a saucepan, make a “sherbet” by combining the lime zest, sugar and 1 pint of water; heat until the sugar dissolves and the lime peel is softened (about 5 minutes).
2. Add the juices of the limes, lemon and orange or grapefruit.
3. Add the brandy, white wine and remaining pint of water. Stir well.
4. Grate a sprinkling of spice into the punch, if desired.
5. Add ice if serving cold. If serving hot, add a bit more sugar.
6. Garnish the punch bowl with orange peels.

Most limes consumed in America today are the prolific Persian limes or Key limes, but Julianne Gutierrez, the Williamsburg Inn’s executive chef, wanted to try something a little different. Gutierrez uses the rarer tiny finger limes to create a tangy mignonette sauce to serve with icy cold fresh raw oysters.

“Finger limes are smaller than regular limes and their insides consist of little ‘bubbles’ of flavor that explode in the mouth, but this recipe can be made using regular limes as well,” she said.

Finger limes are grown in California and Florida and can be ordered through specialty food purveyors for those who want to be adventurous with this recipe, but it is also delicious made with the limes sold in grocery stores everywhere.

“The flavor of a finger lime is like lime and grapefruit combined,” Gutierrez said. “When consumed raw, it doesn’t cause the puckering normally associated with regular limes.”

Limes are not currently a specific item on the Inn menu, but Gutierrez notes that their flavor is lighter than that of a lemon, making them ideal for squeezing on fish and as a garnish for almost anything. 

Williamsburg Inn
Serves 6

12 fresh oysters
For the Mignonette Sauce
1/4 cup shallots, minced
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper
1 finger lime or regular lime

1. Combine the shallots, vinegar, salt and pepper and allow to chill for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
2. Shuck the oysters. Detach the muscle from underneath each oyster, and flip the oyster over for the best presentation.
3. Cut the finger lime in half and use a spoon or your finger to pop out the pulp, which is small, round and caviarlike in appearance. If using a regular lime, remove the pulp and cut it into very small pieces. Freeze the pulp of either type of lime with liquid nitrogen or in the freezer.
4. Top each oyster with mignonette sauce and frozen lime pulp.

Note This dish is best served cold.